Since Fez's old city is best explored while wandering through the thousands of lanes, I've left these two days more or less unstructured.
Start off with a stop at one of the medina viewpoints. For a relaxed entree into Fassi life, partake in some quality people-watching along with an early lunch at one of the many cheap eateries clustered around the imposing Bab Boujloud.
Spend the rest of the two days wandering some of the 9,500 lanes and alleys accompanied by an official guide or a good map. The main sights you will want to see are:
- Bouinania Medersa
- Chouwara Tannery
- Najjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts
- Bab Boujloud
- Dar Batha Museum
- Kairouine Mosque and University
- Seffarine Square
Enjoy the dinner spectacular at Restaurant al Fassia on Friday night.
Fez Nightlife: There isn’t much to write home about here in terms of nightlife. Cafe Clock is a great place to meet both locals and travelers. Farther down Tala'a Kbrira is the Fez Lounge, a sultry lounge bar that blends aspects of Spain with that of the exotic l'Orient, offering tapas and a menu of Moroccan standards in an interior of charcoal walls, soft lighting, and minimalistic decor. They often have themed party nights, when the usual sounds of world lounge are replaced with the latest in Euro electronica. It's open daily from 11am to 10pm.
If you're looking for a drink in the medina, the longtime watering hole of choice is still the Hotel Batha. The hotel's Churchill lounge is a popular haunt with both expat residents and hotel guests, while Le Consul bar at the rear can sometimes have quite a party happening and stays open until 2am.
Between the two medinas of Fel el Bali and Fes Jdid, and only a 5-minute walk from Bab Boujloud, is Mezzanine. It has a menu of mainly tapas, Moroccan and Mediterranean dishes, and a drinks list that ranges from fresh juices and cold beer to cocktails and shots of whiskey. The vibe is chic and cosmopolitan as the young and beautiful of Fes come to drink and be seen, backed by a soundtrack of world lounge music. It's open until 1am, and two-for-one drinks are on offer nightly from 6 to 8:30pm.
For a refined, though expensive, after-dark drink, head to the Sofitel Palais Jamaï. This 1879 former palace has a piano bar -- which actually has a piano -- and also offers glorious sweeping views over the medina. Come here for sunset.
Live music: There are very few good choices here. Your best bets are the restaurants: Riad Sheherazade, Jnan Palace and La Trois Sources that often host live music.